El yogur tal como lo conocemos hoy tiene más de mil años de historia?
Lo tomaban ya entonces los nómadas turcos de Asia central y ahora es una parte importante de la cocina turca. Se come sólo o como acompañamiento con kebabs, kofte y muchos platos vegetarianos. También es un ingrediente indispensable en el manti (los raviolis turcos) y en el cacik, receta a base de pepino y menta.
Una variedad diferente de yogur es la popular bebida llamada ayran, un fermento lácteo suave y muy ligero que se toma generalmente como bebida durante las comidas. Tras nuestra visita al impresionante yacimiento arqueológico de Éfeso, durante una comida tradicional que compartimos con nuestros compañeros griegos y turcos en el encuentro de junio, en un restaurante al aire libre, sobre alfombras orientales y mullidos cojines, nuestro compañero Isa nos ofreció esta bebida, con la que quedamos gratamente sorprendidos.
...yoghurt as we know it has more than 1000 years of history?
It comes from the Turkish nomads of Central Asia and is an important part of the national cuisine. It is eaten plain or as a side dish with kebabs, kofte and many vegetable dishes. It is also a key ingredient in manti (Turkish ravioli) and cacik, made with cucumber and mint.
A different variety is the popular soft, smooth, fermented milk ayran usually taken as a beverage in meals. Our Turkish friend Isa offered it to us during a lunch we had in a traditional open air restaurant, sitting on oriental rugs and comfortable cushions after our visit to the magnificent archaeological site in Efes.
domingo, 22 de febrero de 2009
¿Sabías que...? / Did you know that...?
domingo, 4 de enero de 2009
El Roscón de Reyes / The Wise Men "Roscón"
Es una tradición culinaria que endulza el paladar de niños y grandes en la noche del 5 de enero, mientras se espera la venida de los Reyes Magos siempre cargados de regalos, a pesar de la crisis. Los hay rellenos de nata, con frutas confitadas o sin ellas, y hasta con cabello de ángel, pero en todo roscón que se precie tiene que haber una moneda, el premio al ganador, y un haba seca, que señala al perdedor. Con este premio se rememora el juego de “rey por un día”, juego que nos trasporta a la corte de Luis XV de Francia en el que el afortunado que encontraba el premio gozaba durante un día de las prebendas a que su fortuna le había conducido: ser tratado con el máximo respeto y servido por amigos y cortesanos. Si nos remitimos a los orígenes de esta tradición tendremos que nombrar al pueblo romano, que celebraba sus fiestas en honor al dios Jano, cocinando unas roscas o panecillos similares al roscón.
Y quizá más interesante todavía resulte la coincidencia de esta tradición con un juego al que juegan los niños griegos, llamado Basilindas, en el que los niños griegos elegían de entre los suyos un rey, capaz de nombrar efímeros príncipes y dignatarios.
Entre nosotros, el roscón se suele acompañar con un buen chocolate calentito. Todo un manjar para los niños. Luego o antes, según costumbres, todo el mundo acude a la cabalgata de Reyes. En nuestra ciudad, la tradición es empezar la cabalgata desde el monte Bolón. Allí suben los chavales acompañados de sus padres portando antorchas que al caer el sol se ven desde la lejanía, causando la impresión de una serpiente chispeante de luces y destellos que se desliza por la ladera hasta las primeras calles de la ciudad. Nada más evocador que esta comitiva nocturna para creer de verdad en los Reyes Magos. Una vez más y sin faltar a su anual cita, los Magos de Oriente nos traen la ilusión y la esperanza perdidas que se nos quedaron prendidas en las hojas que hemos ido arrancando al calendario.
It is a bakery tradition which sweetens children and adults alike on January the 5th, while awaiting for the arrival of the Three Wise Men loaded with presents for all children (especially the well-behaved ones), despite the general crisis. This ring can sometimes be filled with cream, dried fruits or thin vermicelli. There must be two hidden items inside every ring: a dried bean and a litle figure of a king – or a coin -. The one getting the bean in his/her piece will have to pay for the celebration and the one getting the other will be honoured. In such way we recall the game “king for one day” which takes us back to the court of Louis the 15th of France where the lucky one who found the prize would be treated and served with the maximum respect by all their friends and courtiers for one day. If we go back to the origin of this tradition, we have to name the Romans, who held a celebration to honour the God Jano, cooking sweet dough rings and rolls similar to our “roscón”.
And we could also refer to the coincidence of this tradition with a game usually played by Greek children, called Basilindas, in which they elect a king among them with the privilege of naming short-lived princes and dignataries.
We usually take roscón soaking it in a cup of hot chocolate, especially tasty for children. Also on January the 5th, everybody goes to watch the Three Wise Men parade. In our town, Elda, the parade starts from Mount Bolón. All youngsters and some of their parents climb up the mountain after midday and light a bonfire, both to put up with the cold weather and to light the path for the paraders at dusk, when they use the burning fire to light wooden torches and start going down. In town, a shape of sparkling glimmers and lights can be noticed in the distance coming nearer from up the steep slope into the first streets. Nothing could be more convincing than this long congregation to really believe in the magic of the Three Wise Men.
Once more, without failing their yearly appointment, the Three Wise Men bring the happiness and hope which adults gave away together with the monthly sheets we tear off the calendar.
miércoles, 17 de diciembre de 2008
¿Sabías que... / Did you know that...
...a veces las recetas antiguas que han llegado a nuestros días no tienen raíces culinarias sino históricas?
Eso le ocurre a un postre denominado Visnely ekmek kadayfi originario de la ciudad de Afyon, en Anatolia. Se remonta a la época del Imperio Otomano. Entonces tomaron la costumbre de celebrar cada victoria bélica dándole pan a los soldados, y éstos lo regaban con jarabe para endulzarlo. Esta tradición evolucionó hasta convertirse en una especialidad de repostería a la que ahora se le suele añadir nata montada.
Besir, un camarero muy atento y profesional que encontramos en una taberna típica del centro de Estambul, nos recomendó que lo probáramos como punto final de la suculenta cena que habíamos tomado, a lo que la golosa del grupo no pudo resistirse.
Did you know that sometimes ancient recipes can have reached our days from historical rather than culinary reasons?
That happens to the dessert called Visnely ekmek kadayfi, which comes from the Anatolian city of Afyon. Its history dates back to the Ottoman Empire when after each victory in a battle the soldiers were given bread with syrup on it. This tradition evolved and people began making a dessert, to which nowadays clotted cream is added.
Besir, a very friendly and professional waiter in a traditional tavern in the centre of Istanbul, recommemded us that dessert as a juicy delight after a succulent dinner, which we greatly enjoyed.
martes, 25 de noviembre de 2008
¿Sabías que... / Did you know that...
En Turquía se llaman meze y son entrantes ligeros fríos o calientes que se toman como comida ligera o se sirven antes del plato principal. Algunos ejemplos son: sigara boregi (queso frito con rollitos de hojaldre), barbunya (alubias en aceite de oliva) y pimientos verdes rellenos. Tuvimos la oportunidad de probarlas en el encuentro Comenius que celebramos hace unos días en Estambul y nos parecieron exquisitas.
En nuestra visita a Atenas también pudimos probar las mezzedes en varias tabernas que ofrecían gran variedad de platitos a elegir, tanto de pescado, de carne o de verduras, y que por supuesto también nos resultaron de lo más suculento.
Tanto las tapas como las meze y las mezzedes son muestras de la costumbre mediterránea de compartir aperitivos y platos variados mientras se conversa y se disfruta de nuestro cálido clima y nuestro talante abierto y desenfadado. Otro punto en común entre los tres países que hemos descubierto.
Did you know that the typical Spanish “tapas” - cold or hot appetizers to be shared among the people at the same table – have a similar version in Turkish and Greek cuisines ?
In Turkey they are called meze and are very popular as a light snack or starter before a meal. Some well-known examples are: sigara boregi (fried cheese and pastry rolls) barbunya (beans in olive oil) and stuffed green peppers. We had the opportunity to taste them in our recent meeting in Istambul and they were delicious, indeed.
In our visit to Athens we could also enjoy the Greek mezzedes in some popular taverns, where we were offered a great variety of different dishes including fish, meat and vegetable specialities that of course were all very tasty.
Tapas, meze and mezzedes all follow the Mediterranean tendency of sharing snacks or light meals while getting into conversation, especially in terraces or open air spaces, enjoying the mild climate and our natural friendly disposition. One more thing which is exaclty the same in the three countries.
lunes, 9 de junio de 2008
¿Sabías que... / Did you know that...
El origen de este sabroso bollo se remonta a 1683, cuando las tropas otomanas del Visir Kará Mustafá sitiaron la ciudad de Viena. Terminado el asedio con el triunfo de los cristianos a los pasteleros vieneses se les ocurrió que una buena manera de celebrarlo podría ser comiéndose la media luna, símbolo de los turcos. Por eso crearon esa dulce pieza de bollería que llamamos cruasán.
Esperamos que nuestros amigos turcos no se molesten por este comentario. ¡Por lo menos culinariamente hablando valió la pena el invento!
Did you know that... The croissant was first made to commemorate the Christian victory against the Turks?
The origin of this delicious pastry goes back to 1683, when the Visir Kará Mustafá`s Otoman troops besieged Vienna. Once finished the siege after the Christian victory, the Viennese bakers thought of a celebration which consisted in eating a butter flour baked moon crescent, the Turkish symbol, and with that purpose they created what we call croissant.
Though the idea was not exactly a symbol of the tolerance we try to deal with in our Comenius project, the fact is that taking it in the practical side, gastronomy has since then won a worldwide useful ally.
sábado, 12 de abril de 2008
Halva: una delicia culinaria con historia / Halva: a sweet with ceremonial significance
También nos indican que igual que sucede con nuestras “monas” hay distintas variedades del producto. Se puede encontrar el halva hueco, con crema montada o con fruta caramelizada.
El nombre de este postre se puede encontrar también en hebreo, sánscrito, hindú y árabe lo que da idea de que su origen es muy antiguo y que estaría situado entre el este de Europa y Oriente Medio. En realidad la palabra halva procede del árabe hulw que significa “dulce”. En el siglo VII existía un pastel llamado así, hulw, a base de dátil molido con leche. Siglos después, y tras ser modificado por varias culturas el término pasó a referirse a una pasta de sémola de trigo tostada con miel o azúcar y jarabe de dátil o uva. Desde entonces ha evolucionado a una multitud de formas, ingredientes y métodos variados.
La palabra actual se deriva de halvais, nombre de la casta o gremio de pasteleros procedentes de la India que lo cocían en unas cocinas llamadas “helvahane” en el Imperio Otomano. Estos “helvahane” eran como ahora un obrador moderno de una confitería actual donde se hacen multitud de masas, cremas, confites, etc, como por ejemplo los peltes, dulces hechos con zumo de frutas, almidón, y azúcar originarios de los paludes que se hacían antiguamente en las “helvahane”.
Halva: a sweet with ceremonial significance
In restaurants and home kitchens, it is common to find both flour halva and semolina-based (irmik helvası) halva, made with water or milk and sweetened with granulated sugar.
The Larousse Gastronomique states that "halva or halvah" is "an Eastern sweetmeat based on roasted sesame seeds, which are ground into a smooth paste (tahin) and then mixed with boiled sugar.
It has a high fat content and, although very sweet, a slightly bitter taste. Other types of halva can be aerated and whipped and cream or crystallized (candied) fruit may be added." Many people's perception of halva (or "helva," as it is known in Turkey) would fit in well with the Larousse definition and, while not technically wrong, by dismissing halva so easily they are missing out on some of the best tasting and simplest sweets and desserts available.
Halva is spelt in as many ways as there are varieties of the sweet: halva for English speakers, halava in Sanskrit, halvah for Hebrew, halwa in Hindi or Arabic and then more. The true origins of halva reflect this collection of languages, all centered around countries east of Europe and, while many cultures lay claim to inventing the delicious food, historians believe that it is an ancient confection originating in the Middle East. In fact, the name halva comes from the Arabic word hulw, which means sweet. In the seventh century hulw consisted of a paste of dates kneaded with milk. In the following centuries, as its popularity spread with the conquering and assimilation of cultures, the term referred to toasted flour or semolina mixed with honey or a sugar, date or grape syrup and made into a paste over a medium heat. Since then it has evolved into a multitude of things, incorporating an assortment of ingredients and cooking methods.
The word and the popularity of the sweet concoctions lead to the name of halvais, the confectioner's caste in India and to the helvacı, or sweet makers, in the kitchens of the Ottoman Empire. The helvahane was the kitchen where halvas were made. The helvahane could be likened to the pastry section in a modern-day professional kitchen. In the pastry section you will find chefs preparing and cooking all manner of sweet temptations, not just pastries, and yet this is how it is identified. So, too, was the helvahane responsible for the preparation of a vast array of foods and beverages, including preserved fruits, jams and sherbets, as well as pickled vegetables. The present-day peltes, sweets made from fruit juice, starch and sugar, originate from the paludes made in the helvahane.
From as early as the 15th and 16th centuries, aşure, baklava, kadayıf, muhallebi, zerde and halva were enjoyed by those eating from the palace kitchens.
"The helvahane acted as pharmacy to the palace, with medicines of the time carefully prepared under the supervision of the helvacı başı," he explains, adding that all manner of common ailments, including impotency, were treated with remedies from the kitchens. The belief in the link between food and health is perhaps born out by the fact that one of the first Turkish-language cookbooks was translated from Arabic by Muhammed bin Mahmud Şirvani (1375-1450), who was a physician to Sultan Murat II (1421-1451).
Despite these varied responsibilities, the kitchen, chefs and an incredible number of sweetmeats and desserts were identified by derivatives of the name "helva." The palace kitchen records show that during the circumcision feast of Sultan Süleyman's (1494-1566) sons in 1539, 15 different types of halva were served. While the whole populace would be invited to celebrate the occasion, halva was more than likely only served to people of significant standing within the empire or to those the sultan was eager to impress. Halvas were a common and seemingly compulsory item on the menus for festivals, weddings and circumcisions.
Since the earliest days of halva, it has held ceremonial significance. Various rituals are associated with the making of halva. Most commonly nowadays, halva is made in commemoration of a person's death and shared among friends, relatives and neighbors. While stirring the semolina or flour, prayers are said quietly for the deceased person. In accordance with the tradition of remembrance on the seventh and 40th days after a death and on every death anniversary, halva is again made and shared. Halva is also made and shared for births and religious holidays. It may be made to celebrate the birthday of Prophet Mohammed (Mevlid Kandili) or on other occasions during the Islamic calendar year.
The halvas of the Ottoman era were made with flour or wheat starch. Recipes recorded in the 15th century include exotic halvas of butter, flour, saffron, honey, poppy seeds, pistachio and rosewater. Honey featured regularly as a sweetener. These days the most common halva found in restaurants is semolina-based (irmik helvası), made with water or milk and sweetened with granulated sugar. In home kitchens, it is common to find both semolina and flour halvas. Semolina halva usually has a granular texture, while that made with flour is more solid and can be rolled into balls. As with the early days, the variations are numerous and most cooks will distinguish themselves with a slightly different ingredient, method or presentation. Halva made with tahini is most commonly bought from shops and is not referred to frequently in historical texts. The crushed sesame seeds are formed into blocks and sold by weight. Tahin helvası can be found with pistachios, almonds or walnuts. It can be flavored with chocolate or caramel or can be served plain. Its texture is firm and can be a little chalky or fudgy. Another type of halva found today is kağıt helvası, which literally translates to paper halva, but is better described as a wafer. It is sold in sweets shops and by street vendors. These vendors often weave their way through backed-up traffic with their plastic wrapped, plate-sized goods stacked high. Kağıt helvası can be eaten plain, straight from the packet or with a scoop of ice cream.
Where to try halva in İstanbul?
It is difficult to find flour halva in any restaurant, so if you are not prepared to make it yourself, ask your best Turkish friend or their mother to make it for you. Some specialist delicatessens do sell flour halva and it is generally presented in almost fist-shaped mounds. Semolina halva is easier to find, be it made with water, milk, pine nuts or almonds. It has become a culinary custom of Turkey to follow a meal of köfte with sütlü irmik helvası (semolina halva made with milk). The halvas based on tahini and sesame seeds can be found in any number of shops that sell confectionary.
[EASY RECIPES]
Semolina halva with milk and almonds
Semolina halva is often prepared with pine nuts; however in the earliest days of the nomadic Ottoman kitchens, halva was made with flour, sugar, butter, milk and almonds.
Ingredients: 250g semolina, 250g granulated sugar, 100g butter, 450ml full-fat milk, 50g almonds, chopped or slivered Method: 1- Melt butter in large frying pan.2- Add semolina and almonds and toast over medium heat, stirring constantly (approximately 10-15 minutes) until both semolina and almonds are well browned. 3- Place milk and sugar in a pan and bring to a boil, ensuring all sugar has dissolved.4- Over a very low heat, slowly add milk syrup to semolina and stir thoroughly. 5- Cook until the mixture is thick, then cover and continue to cook over medium heat for five minutes. 6 - Turn heat off and leave covered for 10 minutes. 7- Gently stir the halva with a fork to separate the grains of semolina and serve warm.
Dessert dictionary
Aşure: a dessert of fruit, grain (specially labeled for aşure) and legumes. Prepared during the first 10 days of the month of Muharram in the Islamic calendar. Baklava: layers and layers of pastry (at least 40, if you are any kind of expert), most often with nuts and syrup. Kadayıf: a shredded-type pastry treated in many ways, but always laced in syrup and often accompanied by kaymak (very thick cream). Muhallebi: classic milk pudding from which a range of other rice flour and milk-based puddings have evolved. Zerde: a gelatinous dessert set with rice and, historically, wheat starch, flavored with saffron and eaten especially at celebrations.
lunes, 24 de marzo de 2008
¿Sabías que... / Did you know that...?
Inauguramos una nueva sección en el blog sobre curiosidades, tradiciones y costumbres de nuestros respectivos países. Hoy celebramos en España el Lunes de Pascua. Según la tradición, los padrinos regalan la Mona a sus ahijados el Lunes de Pascua y suele comerse este mismo día en familia, poniendo punto final a la Semana Santa.
La Mona de Pascua es una especie de torta o base de harina adornada con un huevo duro. Puede ser redonda o tener figuras de animales. El huevo simboliza la Resurrección y es una antigua tradición que se celebra en muchos países en las fiestas del Easter. En muchos lugares los huevos se decoran y pintan con diferentes motivos y también hay huevos de chocolate.
¿Sabías que esta costumbre la hemos heredado de los griegos que solían en sus fiestas de la primavera ofrendar a los dioses con canastillos de panes dulces?
La palabra “mona” viene del latín y significa monda=limpia, aunque otros aluden a su procedencia del árabe, munna como símbolo de amistad.
La Mona de Pascua es una tradición gastronómica en la que se mezcla la religión y las fiestas paganas. Como símbolo religioso el huevo significa Resurrección (ya los griegos y los egipcios enterraban a sus muertos poniendo huevos en sus tumbas), y en la Edad Media el huevo empieza a simbolizar la Trinidad porque está compuesto de tres elementos: clara, yema y cáscara, y a la vez es una unidad.
En cuanto al origen pagano de esta tradición, tenemos que relacionarla con las fiestas que los antiguos romanos celebraban entre el 12 y el 19 de abril en honor de Ceres (diosa de la agricultura y símbolo de la fertilidad de la tierra). En el mundo griego esta diosa se identificaba con Démeter. Durante esos días se conmemoraba el regreso a la tierra de su hija Proserpina. Así, pues, era un día de júbilo y alegría, ya que la madre, feliz por tener junto a ella a su hija, hacía que floreciera el campo y sus frutos.
¿Conoces tú alguna otra tradición gastronómica similar?
Did you know that the Easter mona is a traditional baked cake in the eastern part of Spain?
We start a new section in our blog about curiosities, traditions and customs from our countries. Today we celebrate in Spain what we call “Easter Monday”. Following the tradition it is the date when Godparents give a mona to their Godchild and it is usually eaten that same day together with the rest of the family, as the final event taking place in Holy Week. The Easter mona is a kind of sweet cake with a hard boiled egg in the middle. Its shape is normally round but it can also represent a figure or animal. The egg symbolizes Christ’s Resurrection and it is an ancient tradition celebrated in a lot of countries during their Easter holidays. In many places eggs are decorated or painted with different drawings. Chocolate eggs are also common.
Did you know that this habit comes from ancient Greeks, who used to offer their Gods baskets full of sweet cakes in their Spring festivities?
The word “mona” comes from Latin and means monda (clean), though some believe it comes from the arab word munna, a symbol of friendship.
The Easter Mona is a culinary tradition mixing religion and lay feasts. As a religious symbol the egg means Resurrection (ancient Greeks and Egyptians used to bury dead bodies with some eggs in their graves), and in the Middle Ages the egg begins to symbolize the Holy Trinity since it is composed of three elements: yolk, yeast and shell and being one only thing.
According to its pagan origin, we must link it to the celebrations the ancient Romans held between the 12th and the 19th of April to honour Ceres (The Agriculture Goddess and a symbol of fertility on Earth). In the Greek world, this Goddess was related to Demeter. During those days they celebrated the return to Earth of their daughter Proserpina. For that reason, it was a day for joy and happiness, as her mother, happy to have her back, made flowers and agricultural products grow on Earth.
Ahmet Çallioglu Çok Programli Lisesi (Aydin, Turkey)
Primary School of Afxentio (Xanthi, Greece)
I.E.S. Monastil
